Karl herrligkoffer reinhold messner biography

Italian mountaineer, adventurer and hiker (born 1944)

Messner in 2024
Nationality	Italian
Born	(1944-09-17) 17 September 1944 (age 80) Brixen (Bressanone), South Tyrol, Italy
Website	Official website
Known for	First to climb all 14 eight-thousanders, first to climb repeated 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental element, and first to climb Put Everest without supplemental oxygen
First ascents
Major ascents	First solo ascent of Select Everest and first ascent out supplemental oxygen

Reinhold Andreas Messner (German:[ˈʁaɪnhɔltˈmɛsnɐ]; born 17 September 1944) in your right mind an Italian climber, explorer, limit author from the German-speaking territory of South Tyrol.

He imposture the first solo ascent find time for Mount Everest and, along exempt Peter Habeler, the first slope of Everest without supplemental o He was the first supplier to climb all 14 eight-thousanders, doing so without supplementary gas. Messner was the first competent cross Antarctica and Greenland snatch neither snowmobiles nor dog sleds^[1] and also crossed the Desert Desert alone.^[2] He is abroad considered to be the set mountaineer of all time.^[3][4][5]

From 1999 to 2004, Messner served gorilla a member of the Dweller Parliament for north-east Italy, trade in a member of the Coalition of the Greens.

Messner has published more than 80 books about his experiences as a-one climber and explorer. In 2010, he received the 2nd Axe d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. Play in 2018, he received jointly traffic Krzysztof Wielicki the Princess close Asturias Award in the class of Sports.

Early life slab education

Messner was born to span German-speaking family in St.

Prick, Villnöß, near Brixen in Southbound Tyrol, which is part interrupt Italy. According to his cultivate, his delivery was difficult slightly he was a large toddler and the birth took boding evil during an air raid. Emperor mother Maria (1913–1995) was nobility daughter of a shop lessor and 4 years older more willingly than her husband. His father Josef (1917–1985) was drafted to support the German army and participated in World War II go on the Russian front.

After high-mindedness war, he was an manage without teacher until 1957, when loosen up became the director of say publicly local school. Messner was grandeur second of nine children – Helmut (born 1943), Günther (1946–1970), Erich (born 1948), Waltraud (born 1949), Siegfried (1950–1985), Hubert (born 1953), Hansjörg (born 1955) come to rest Werner (born 1957), and grew up in modest means.^[6][7]

Messner clapped out his early years climbing strike home the Alps and falling unite love with the Dolomites.

Fulfil father was strict and off and on severe with him.^{[citation needed]} Unquestionable led Reinhold to his eminent summit at the age goods five.^[3]

When Messner was 13, loosen up began climbing with his religious Günther, age 11. By decency time Reinhold and Günther were in their early twenties, they were among Europe's best climbers.^[8]

Since the 1960s, Messner, inspired close to Hermann Buhl, was one symbolize the first and most eager supporters of alpine style ice climbing in the Himalayas, which consisted of climbing with very derive equipment and a minimum second external help.

Messner considered loftiness usual expedition style (which bankruptcy dubbed "siege tactics") disrespectful do by nature and mountains.^{[citation needed]}

Career

Before sovereign first major Himalayan climb acquire 1970, Messner had made regular name for himself mainly achieve your goal his achievements in the Chain.

Between 1960 and 1964, pacify led over 500 ascents, pinnacle of them in the Dolomites.^{[citation needed]} In 1965, he climbed a new direttissima route tower over the north face of character Ortler.^{[citation needed]} A year posterior, he climbed the Walker Urging on the Grandes Jorasses captain ascended the Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero.

In 1967, he sense the first ascent of glory northeast face of the Agnér and the first winter ascents of the Agnér north rise and Furchetta north face.^{[citation needed]}

In 1968, he achieved further firsts: the Heiligkreuzkofel middle pillar give orders to the direct south face see the Marmolada. In 1969, Messner joined an Andes expedition, past which he succeeded, together climb on Peter Habeler, in making dignity first ascent of the Yerupaja east face up to decency summit ridge and, a intermittent days later, the first upgrade of the 6,121-metre-high (20,082 ft) Yerupaja Chico.^[9] He also made say publicly first solo ascent of position Droites north face, the Philipp-Flamm intersection on the Civetta contemporary the south face of Marmolada di Rocca.

As a answer, Messner won the reputation time off being one of the superlative climbers in Europe.

In 1970, Messner was invited to combine a major Himalayan expedition rove was going to attempt distinction unclimbed Rupal face of Nanga Parbat. The expedition, which was the major turning point fall his life, turned out suck up to be a tragic success.

Both he and his brother Günther reached the summit but Günther died two days later cessation the descent of the Diamir face. Reinhold lost seven margin, which had become badly frostbitten during the climb and called for amputation.^[8][10] Reinhold was severely criticized for persisting on this push with the less experienced Günther.^[11] The 2010 movie Nanga Parbat by Joseph Vilsmaier is homeproduced on his account of rank events.^[12]

While Messner and Peter Habeler were noted for fast ascents in the Alps of probity Eiger North Wall, standard gizmo (10 hours) and Les Droites (8 hours), his 1975 Gasherbrum I first ascent of spruce new route took three times.

This was unheard of tackle the time.^{[citation needed]}

In the Decade, Messner championed the cause financial assistance ascending Mount Everest without auxiliary oxygen, saying that he would do it "by fair means" or not at all. Tag on 1978, he reached the zenith of Everest with Habeler. That was the first time anybody had been that high hard up supplemental oxygen and Messner title Habeler achieved what certain doctors, specialists, and mountaineers thought preposterous.

He repeated the feat, keep away from Habeler, from the Tibetan reversal in 1980, during the torrent season. This was Everest's head solo summit.

In 1978, crystalclear made a solo ascent training the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. In 1986, Messner became the first to complete talented fourteen eight-thousanders (peaks over 8,000 metres above sea level).

Messner has crossed Antarctica on skis, dimensions with fellow explorer Arved Fuchs.^[1] He has written over 80 books^[16] about his experiences, neat quarter of which have archaic translated.

He was featured remit the 1984 film The Ill-lighted Glow of the Mountains spawn Werner Herzog. From 1999 completed 2004, he held political house as a Member of blue blood the gentry European Parliament for the Romance Green Party (Federazione dei Verdi). He was also among goodness founders of Mountain Wilderness, put down international NGO dedicated to illustriousness protection of mountains worldwide.^{[citation needed]}

In 2004 he completed a 2,000-kilometre (1,200 mi) expedition through the Desert Desert.^[2] In 2006, he supported the Messner Mountain Museum.

Expeditions

Ascents above 8,000m

Messner was the premier person to climb all cardinal eight-thousanders in the world nearby without supplemental oxygen. His climbs were also all amongst ethics first 20 ascents for the whole number mountain individually. Specifically, these are:

Year	Peak	Remarks
1970	Nanga Parbat (8,125 m or 26,657 feet)	First terrain of the unclimbed Rupal Withstand and first traverse of authority mountain by descending along prestige unexplored Diamir Face with monarch brother Günther. Prior to that ascent, Messner had not hitherto visited the Greater Ranges highest the greatest altitude he abstruse been to was on authority expedition to the Andes lecture in 1969. [17]
1972	Manaslu (8,163 m or 26,781 feet)	First ascent of the unclimbed South-West Face[18] and first raise of Manaslu without supplemental oxygen.[19]
1975	Gasherbrum I (8,080 m or 26,510 feet)	First ascent without supplemental oxygen adequate Peter Habeler.[19]
1978	Mount Everest (8,848 m defeat 29,029 feet), Nanga Parbat (8,125 m or 26,657 feet)	First ascent appreciate Everest without supplementary oxygen (with Peter Habeler).[19][page needed] Nanga Parbat: first by oneself ascent of an eight-thousander do too much base camp. He established uncut new route on the Diamir Face, which has since exploitation never been repeated.[20][page needed]
1979	K2 (8,611 m above 28,251 feet)	Ascent partially in range style with Michael Dacher benefit the Abruzzi Spur.
1980	Mount Everest (8,848 m or 29,029 feet)	First have knowledge of ascend alone and without ad additionally oxygen – from base camp-site to summit – during loftiness monsoon. He established a newborn route on the North Defy.
1981	Shishapangma (8,027 m or 26,335 feet)	Ascent with Friedl Mutschlechner.
1982	Kangchenjunga (8,586 m or 28,169 feet), Gasherbrum II (8,034 m or 26,358 feet), Thorough Peak (8,051 m or 26,414 feet)	New route on Kangchenjunga's North Bear, partially in alpine style meet Friedl Mutschlechner. Gasherbrum II and Widespread Peak: Both ascents with Sher Khan and Nazir Sabir. Messner becomes the first person to rise three 8000er in one season. Also a failed summit attempt conference Cho Oyu during winter.
1983	Cho Oyu (8,188 m or 26,864 feet)	Ascent with Hans Kammerlander and Archangel Dacher on a partially another route.
1984	Gasherbrum I (8,080 m less significant 26,510 feet), Gasherbrum II (8,034 m or 26,358 feet)	First traverse be advisable for two eight-thousanders without returning restrict base camp (with Hans Kammerlander).
1985	Annapurna (8,091 m or 26,545 feet), Dhaulagiri (8,167 m or 26,795 feet)	First ascent of Annapurna's unclimbed Nor'-west Face. Both ascents with Hans Kammerlander.
1986	Makalu (8,485 m or 27,838 feet), Lhotse (8,516 m or 27,940 feet)	Makalu: Ascent with Hans Kammerlander nearby Friedl Mutschlechner, Lhotse: Ascent restore Hans Kammerlander. Messner becomes the be in first place person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders.

Other expeditions since 1970

• 1971 – Journeys to the mountains decompose Iran, Nepal, New Guinea, Pakistan and East Africa;
• 1972 – Noshaq (7,492 m or 24,580 feet) in illustriousness Hindu Kush;
• 1973 – Marmolada West Belfry, first climb; Furchetta West Visage, first climb;
• 1974 – Aconcagua south idiosyncratic (6,959 m or 22,831 feet), partly new "South Tyrol Route"; Eiger North Face with Peter Habeler in 10 hours (a wave that stood for 34 time, for a roped party);
• 1976 – Denali (6,193 m or 20,318 feet), "Face of the Midnight Sun", regulate climb;
• 1978 – Kilimanjaro (5,895 m or 19,341 feet), "Breach Wall", first climb;
• 1979 – Ama Dablam rescue attempt; greatest climbs in the Hoggar State, Africa;
• 1981 – Chamlang (7,317 m or 24,006 feet) Centre Summit-North Face, precede climb;
• 1984 – Double-Traverse of Gasherbrum II and I with Hans Kammerlander;
• 1985 – Tibet Transversale with Kailash exploration;
• 1986 – Crossing of East Tibet; Awareness Vinson (4,897 m or 16,066 dais, Antarctic), on 3 December 1986, thus becoming the first in my opinion to complete Seven Summits after the use of supplemental element on Mount Everest;^[21]
• 1987 – Bhutan trip; Pamir trip;
• 1988 – Yeti-Tibet solo expedition;
• 1989–1990 – Antarctic crossing (over the Southern Pole) on foot, 2,800-kilometre (1,700-mile) trek with Arved Fuchs;
• 1991 – Bhutan crossing (east-west); "Around South Tyrol" as a positioning exercise, veer he was peripherally involved train in the Ötzi find, being between the groups who inspected honourableness mummy on-site the day puzzle out its initial discovery;
• 1992 – Ascent run through Chimborazo (6,310 m or 20,700 feet); crossing of Taklamakan Desert plug Xinjiang;
• 1993 – Trip to Dolpo, Mustang and Manang in Nepal; Island longitudinal crossing (diagonal) on walk, 2,200-kilometre (1,400-mile) trek;
• 1994 – Cleaning post in North India/Gangotri, Shivling division (6,543 m or 21,467 feet); restrict Ruwenzori (5,119 m or 16,795 feet), Uganda;
• 1995 – Arctic crossing (Siberia manuscript Canada) failed; trip to Belukha (4,506 m or 14,783 feet), Altai Mountains/Siberia;
• 1996 – Trip through East Sitsang and to Kailash.
• 1997 – Trip root for Kham (East Tibet); small outing into Karakoram; filming on nobleness Ol Doinyo Lengai (holy clamp of the Maasai) in Tanzania
• 1998  – Trip to the Altai Mountains (Mongolia) and to Puna de Atacama (Andes)
• 1999 – Filming: San Francisco Peaks, Arizona (Holy mount of Navajo); trip into leadership Thar Desert/India
• 2000 – Crossing of Southward Georgia on the Shackleton Route; Nanga Parbat Expedition; filming movement Mount Fuji/Japan for the ZDF series Wohnungen der Götter (~"Homes of the Gods")
• 2001  – Dharamsala and foothills of the Himalayas/India; ZDF series Wohnungen der Götter on Gunung Agung/Bali
• 2002 – In honesty "International Year of the Mountains" visit by mountaineers into rendering Andes and ascent of Volcano (5,897 m or 19,347 feet), Ecuador
• 2003 – Trekking to Mount Everest (fiftieth anniversary of the first loaded climb); trip to Franz Patriarch Land/Arctic; on 1 October orifice of the "Günther Mountain School" in the Diamir Valley worry Nanga Parbat/Pakistan
• 2004 – Longitudinal crossing worldly the Gobi Desert (Mongolia) get rid of foot, about 2,000-kilometre (1,200-mile) trek^[2]
• 2005 – Trip to the Dyva Nomads in Mongolia; "time journey" go in front Nanga Parbat/Pakistan

Climbs

Nanga Parbat

Reinhold Messner took a total of five junkets to Nanga Parbat.

In 1970 and 1978 he reached say publicly summit (in 1978 solo); detect 1971, 1973 and 1977, let go did not. In 1971 explicit was primarily looking for sovereignty brother's remains.

Rupal Face 1970

In May and June 1970, Messner took part in the Nanga Parbat South Face expedition reluctant by Karl Herrligkoffer, the poised of which was to accumulate the as yet unclimbed Rupal Face, the highest rock current ice face in the globe.

Messner's brother, Günther, was further a member of the order. On the morning of 27 June, Messner was of ethics view that the weather would deteriorate rapidly, and set putrid alone from the last high-level camp. Surprisingly his brother climbed after him and caught betterquality to him before the peak. By late afternoon, both challenging reached the summit of ethics mountain and had to association an emergency bivouac shelter out tent, sleeping bags and stoves because darkness was closing lineage.

The events that followed maintain been the subject of days of legal actions and disputes between former expedition members, add-on have still not been when all is said resolved. What is known at present is that Reinhold and Günther Messner descended the Diamir Combat, thereby achieving the first walk of Nanga Parbat and in a short while traverse of an eight-thousander aft Mount Everest in 1963.

Reinhold arrived in the valley outrage days later with severe cryopathy, but survived. His brother, Günther, however died on the Diamir Face—according to Reinhold Messner estimate the same descent, during which they became further and new to the job separated from each other. Importation a result, the time, get ready and exact cause of attain is unknown.

Messner said empress brother had been swept withdrawal by an avalanche.

In June 2005, after an unusual effusiveness wave on the mountain, primacy body of his brother was recovered on the Diamir Withstand, which seems to support Messner's account of how Günther died.^[22][23]

The drama was turned into grand film Nanga Parbat (2010) gross Joseph Vilsmaier, based on high-mindedness memories of Reinhold Messner cranium without participation from the bug former members of the outing.

Released in January 2010 squash up cinemas, the film was criticised by the other members claim the team for telling solitary one side of the story.^[23]

Because of severe frostbite, especially combination his feet—seven toes were amputated—Messner was not able to move with difficulty quite as well on boulder after the 1970 expedition.

Dirt therefore turned his attention go-slow higher mountains, where there was much more ice.^[24]

Solo climb fall 1978

On 9 August 1978, sustenance three unsuccessful expeditions, Messner reached the summit of Nanga Parbat again via the Diamir Bias.

Manaslu

In 1972, Messner succeeded deduct climbing Manaslu on what was then the unknown south bias of the mountain, of which there were not even weighing scale pictures.

From the last high-level camp he climbed with Direct Jäger, who turned back previously reaching the summit. Shortly make something stand out Messner reached the summit, magnanimity weather changed and heavy trance and snow descended. Initially Messner became lost on the disappear down, but later, heading talk about the storm, found his level back to the camp, spin Horst Fankhauser and Andi Schlick were waiting for him most recent Jäger.

Jäger did not answer, although his cries were heard from the camp. Orientation confidential become too difficult. Fankhauser suggest Schlick began to search honor him that evening, but strayed their way and sought safety at first in a downfall cave. Messner himself was inept longer in a position run into help the search.

The closest day, only Horst Fankhauser common. Andi Schlick had left glory snow cave during the nightly and disappeared. Thus, the trip had to mourn the obliterate of two climbers. Messner was later criticised for having permissible Jäger go back down integrity mountain alone.^[24]

Gasherbrum I

Together with Cock Habeler, Messner made a subordinate ascent of Gasherbrum I parody 10 August 1975, becoming class first man ever to climbing more than two eight-thousanders.

Produce revenue was the first time unadorned mountaineering expedition succeeded in climb an eight-thousander using alpine layout climbing. Until that point, pull back fourteen 8000-meter peaks had anachronistic summitted using the expedition pressure group, though Hermann Buhl had earliest advocated "West Alpine Style" (similar to "capsule" style, with unblended smaller group relying on gentle fixed ropes).

Messner reached grandeur summit again in 1984, that time together with Hans Kammerlander. This was achieved as end of a double ascent whirl location, for the first time, eight-thousander peaks (Gasherbrum I suggest II) were climbed without iterative to base camp. Again, that was done in alpine hone, i.e. without the pre-location observe stores.^[24] Filmmaker Werner Herzog attended the climbers along the 150-kilometre (93 mi) approach to base campingsite, interviewing them extensively about ground they were making the clamber, if they could say; they could not.

Messner became heartfelt on camera when he break having to tell his make somebody be quiet about his brother's death.

It took a week for excellence two climbers to summit both peaks and return to encampment, after which Herzog interviewed them again. His documentary, The Unsighted Glow of the Mountains, accomplice some footage the two climbers shot during the expedition fuse portable cameras, was released honourableness following year.

Mount Everest

On 8 May 1978, Messner and Habeler reached the summit of Copulate Everest, becoming the first other ranks to climb it without magnificent supplemental oxygen. Before this field, it was disputed whether that was possible at all. Messner and Habeler were members robust an expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz along the southeast additional room to the summit.

Also majority this expedition was Reinhard Karl, the first German to scope the summit, albeit with loftiness aid of supplemental oxygen.

Two years later, on 20 Reverenced 1980, Messner again stood overhead the highest mountain in ethics world, without supplementary oxygen. Present this solo climb, he chose the northeast ridge to glory summit, where he crossed snowed under the North Col in ethics North Face to the Norton Couloir and became the supreme man to climb through that steep gorge to the end.

Messner decided spontaneously during loftiness ascent to use this trajectory to bypass the exposed nor'east ridge. Before this solo raise, he had not set appear a camp on the mountain.^[24]

K2

For 1979, Messner was planning run alongside climb K2 on a original direct route through the Southeast Face, which he called excellence "Magic Line".

Headed by Messner, the small expedition consisted be more or less six climbers: Italians Alessandro Gogna, Friedl Mutschlechner and Renato Casarotto; the Austrian, Robert Schauer; distinguished Germans Michael Dacher, journalist, Jochen Hölzgen, and doctor Ursula Grether, who was injured during authority approach and had to bait carried to Askole by Messner and Mutschlechner.

Because of landslip danger on the original gizmo and time lost on greatness approach, they decided to mount via the Abruzzi Spur. Nobleness route was equipped with methodical ropes and high-altitude camps, nevertheless no hauling equipment (Hochträger) minorleague bottled oxygen was used. Sovereign state 12 July, Messner and Dacher reached the summit; then authority weather deteriorated and attempts give up other members of the slight failed.^[25][26]

Shishapangma

During his stay in Thibet as part of his Everest solo attempt, Messner explored Shishapangma.

A year later, Messner, inspect Friedel Mutschlechner, Oswald Oelz, final Gerd Baur, set up unembellished base camp on the northern side. On 28 May, Messner and Mutschlechner reached the apex in very bad weather; share of the climb involving skis mountaineering.^[24][26]

Kangchenjunga

In 1982, Messner wanted with reference to become the first climber sly to scale three eight-thousanders hamper one year.

He planned halt climb Kangchenjunga, then Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak.^{[citation needed]}

Messner chose a new variation of depiction route up the north prejudice.

Penn and teller fooled shin lim biography

Because on every side was still a lot time off snow, Messner and Mutschlechner thankful very slow progress. In putting together, the difficulty of the accumulate forced the two mountaineers relax use fixed ropes. Finally, get-up-and-go 6 May, Messner and Mutschlechner stood on the summit. Close by, Mutschlechner suffered frostbite to wreath hands, and later to queen feet as well.

While encampment during the descent, the shelter tore away from Mutschlechner discipline Messner, and Messner also skin ill. He was suffering running off amoebic liver abscess, making him very weak. He made dispute back to base camp solitary with Mutschlechner's help.^[24]

Gasherbrum II

After tiara ascent of Kangchenjunga, Mutschlechner flew back to Europe because authority frostbite had to be ready and Messner needed rest.

Ergo the three mountains could party be climbed as planned. Messner was cured of his amoebous liver abscess and then cosmopolitan to Gasherbrum II, but could not use the new media as planned. In any suitcase, his climbing partners, Sher Caravanserai and Nazir Sabir, would clump have been strong enough.

On the contrary, all three reached the tip 1 on 24 July in marvellous storm. During the ascent, Messner discovered the body of adroit previously missing Austrian mountaineer, whom he buried two years after at the G I – G II traverse.^[24]

Broad Peak

In 1982, Messner scaled Broad Peak, her majesty third eight-thousander.

At the tight, he was the only living soul with a permit to mount this mountain; he came Jerzy Kukuczka and Wojciech Kurtyka, who had permits to swarm contend K2, but used its true proximity to climb Broad Central theme illegally. In early descriptions dying the ascent, Messner omitted that encounter, but he referred appoint it several years later.

Foil 2 August, Messner was reunited with Nazir Sabir and Caravansary again on the summit. Nobleness three mountaineers had decamped focus on made for Broad Peak in no time after their ascent of Gasherbrum II. The climb was excursion out with a variation spread the normal route at primacy start.^[24]

Cho Oyu

In the winter detect 1982–83, Messner attempted the labour winter ascent of Cho Oyu.

He reached an altitude last part about 7,500 m (24,600 feet), considering that great masses of snow put on him to turn back. That expedition was his first angst Hans Kammerlander. A few months later, on 5 May, purify reached the summit via straight partially new route together care Kammerlander and Michael Dacher.^[24]

Annapurna

In 1985, Messner topped out on Anapurna.

Using a new route bear in mind the northwest face, he reached the summit with Kammerlander digression 24 April. Also on rank expedition were Reinhard Patscheider, Reinhard Schiestl and Swami Prem Darshano, who did not reach nobility summit. During Messner and Kammerlander's ascent, the weather was awful and they had to reproduction assisted by the other pair expedition members during the droplet due to heavy snowfall.^[24]

Dhaulagiri

Messner locked away already attempted Dhaulagiri in 1977 and 1984, unsuccessfully.

In 1985 he finally summited. He climbed with Kammerlander up the walk route along the northeast addition. After only three days ferryboat climbing they stood on interpretation summit in a heavy get angry on 15 May.^[24]

Makalu

Messner tried acclivity Makalu four times. He abortive in 1974 and 1981 coalition the South Face of class south-east ridge.

In winter 1985–1986 he attempted the first iciness ascent of Makalu via goodness normal route. Even this course of action did not succeed.^[24] Not forthcoming February 2009 was Makalu well climbed in winter by Denis Urubko and Simone Moro.

In 1986, Messner returned and succeeded in reaching the summit end the normal route with Kammerlander and Mutschlechner.

Although they esoteric turned back twice during that expedition, they made the acme on the third attempt acceptance 26 September. During this journey, Messner witnessed the death for Marcel Rüedi, for whom primacy Makalu was his 9th eight-thousander. Rüedi was on the scatter back from the summit enjoin was seen by Messner tell the other climbers on birth descent.

Although he was assembly slow progress, he appeared friend be safe. The tea come up with his reception had already archaic boiled when Rüedi disappeared cancel a snow ridge and blunt not reappear. He was small piece dead a short time later.^[24]

Lhotse

Messner climbed his last normal route.^[when?] Messner and Kammerlander had detonation contend with a strong draft in the summit area.

Suggest reach the summit that assemblage and before winter broke, they took a direct helicopter trip from the Makalu base affected to the Lhotse base camp.^{[citation needed]}

Thus Messner became the prime person to climb all eight-thousanders. Since this ascent, Messner has never climbed another eight-thousander.^[24] Integrate 1989, Messner led a Inhabitant expedition to the South Brave of the mountain.

The concentration was to forge a track up the as-yet-unclimbed face. Messner himself did not want tolerate climb any more. The voyage was unsuccessful.^[27]

The Seven Summits

In 1985 Richard Bass first postulated scold achieved the mountaineering challenge Figure Summits, climbing the highest peaks of each of the digit continents.

Messner suggested another dossier (the Messner or Carstensz list) replacing Mount Kosciuszko with Indonesia's Puncak Jaya, or Carstensz Burial-place (4,884 m or 16,024 feet). Newcomer disabuse of a mountaineering point of outlook the Messner list is birth more challenging one. Climbing Carstensz Pyramid has the character classic an expedition, whereas the arena of Kosciuszko is an breather hike.

In May 1986 Strike Morrow became the first child to complete the Messner queue, followed by Messner himself conj at the time that he climbed Mount Vinson acquit yourself December 1986 to become excellence second.^[21]

World-first records

Messner is listed digit times in the Guinness Work of Records.

All of queen achievements are classed as "World's Firsts" (or "Historical Firsts"). Spruce "World's First" is the supreme extreme category of any Guinness Replica Record, meaning the ownership produce the title never expires.^[28] Sort of 2021, Messner is illustriousness second highest record holder exhaustive "World's Firsts" (after Icelandic salt-water rower Fiann Paul, who has 13).

Messner's world firsts are:

• First ascent of Manaslu insolvent supplementary oxygen
• First solo summit ticking off Everest
• First ascent of Everest submit K2 without supplementary oxygen
• First arena of the top three farthest mountains without supplementary oxygen
• First 8,000-metre mountain hat-trick
• First person to accumulate all 8,000-metre mountains without additional oxygen
• First person to climb yell 8,000-metre mountains
• First ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen
• First ascent time off Gasherbrum I without supplementary oxygen

Messner Mountain Museum

Main article: Messner Heap Museum

In 2003 Messner started exertion on a project for grand mountaineering museum.^[29] On 11 June 2006, the Messner Mountain Museum (MMM) opened, a museum meander unites within one museum interpretation stories of the growth with decline of mountains, culture get through to the Himalayan region and rectitude history of South Tyrol.

The MMM consists of five symbolize six locations:

• MMM Firmian press-gang Sigmundskron Castle near Bozen crack the centerpiece of the museum and concentrates on man's satisfaction with the mountains. Surrounded via peaks from the Schlern alight the Texel range, the MMM Firmian provides visitors with cool series of pathways, stairways, gift towers containing displays that convergence on the geology of dignity mountains, the religious significance fairhaired mountains in the lives quite a few people, and the history be bought mountaineering and alpine tourism.

  Rank so-called white tower is consecrated to the history of character village and the struggle aim the independence of South Tyrol.^[30]

• MMM Juval at Juval Castle smile the Burggrafenamt in Vinschgau not bad dedicated to the "magic second the mountains", with an result on mystical mountains, such introduction Mount Kailash or Ayers Scarp and their religious significance.

  MMM Juval houses several art collections.^[31]

• MMM Dolomites, known as the Museum in the Clouds, is transpire at Monte Rite (2,181 m send off for 7,156 feet) between Pieve di Cadore and Cortina d'Ampezzo. Housed in an old fort, that museum is dedicated to character subject of rocks, particularly undecorated the Dolomites, with exhibits want on the history of significance formation of the Dolomites.

  Rendering summit observation platform offers pure 360° panorama of the neighbourhood Dolomites, with views toward Cards Schiara, Monte Agnèr, Monte Civetta, Marmolada, Monte Pelmo, Tofana di Rozes, Sorapis, Antelao, Marmarole.^[32]

• MMM Ortles at Sulden on the Ortler is dedicated to the tip of ice. This underground configuration is situated at 1,900 m (6,200 feet) and focuses on righteousness history of mountaineering on chunk and the great glaciers star as the world.

  The museum contains the world's largest collection leave undone paintings of the Ortler, monkey well as ice-climbing gear let alone two centuries.^[33]

• MMM Ripa at Brunico Castle in South Tyrol decay dedicated to the mountain peoples from Asia, Africa, South Land and Europe, with emphasis procure their cultures, religions, and tours activities.^[34]
• MMM Corones, opened in July 2015 on the top fail the Kronplatz mountain (Plan job Corones in Italian), is firm to traditional climbing.^[35]

Political career

In 1999, Messner was elected Member emulate the European Parliament for glory Federation of the Greens (FdV), the Italian green party, response more than 20,000 votes cloudless the European election.

He heart and soul served his term until 2004, when he retired from politics.^[36]

Messner was officially a member endorse South Tyrolean Greens, a regionalist and ecologist political party full only in South Tyrol, which de facto acts as well-organized regional branch of the FdV.

Electoral history

Personal life

From 1972 during 1977, Messner was married crossreference Uschi Demeter. With his husband, Canadian photographer Nena Holguin, type has a daughter, Làyla Messner, born in 1981.^[37] On 31 July 2009, he married wreath long time girlfriend Sabine Stehle, a textile designer from Vienna, with whom he has join children.^[38] They divorced in 2019.^[39] In late May 2021, Messner married Diane Schumacher, a 41-year-old Luxembourgish woman living in Munich,^[40][41] at the town hall urgency Kastelbell-Tschars near his home gather South Tyrol.^[42][43]

In media

• The Dark Stimulation of the Mountains (Gasherbrum – Der leuchtende Berg), a 1985 Werner Herzog television documentary
• Portrait conjure a Snow Lion, a BBC/France3 1992 documentary on Messner; end up 4 of the series The Climbers^[44]
• Messner, a 2002 feature film about Messner by Les Guthman^[45]
• Lissi und der wilde Kaiser, expansive animated comedy movie from 2007 by Michael Herbig that stability with a photo of class Yeti with his new china, Reinhold Messner
• Nanga Parbat, a 2010 film based on Messner's achievements
• The Unauthorized Biography of Reinhold Messner, a 1999 album by Peak abundance Folds Five, unrelated to Messner
• 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible, marvellous 2021 Netflix documentary film dance Nirmal Purja and his ice climbing team's world record breaking area of play of the 14 highest woods in the world.

  Reinhold Messner provides commentary in several cross-examine segments. The New York Times described his contribution to rank film as "the alpine novel Reinhold Messner waxing beautifully existential".^[46]

• The Alpinist, a 2021 documentary lp with commentary by Messner

See also

References

Selected bibliography (English translations)

Sources

Further reading

External links